Oh, the joys of trolling the Web for close-ups of the makeup and hairstyles from New York Fashion Week. Such sensory overload! The excitement of seeing a gorgeous face and makeup we want to wear, a new lipstick color we can’t wait to get our hands on, relief that we get to keep the eyebrows we’ve allowed to grow back, the surprise at how many makeup artists eschewed mascara, total awe at the artistry of Charlotte Tilbury’s stunning metallic eye makeup for Prabal Gurung (totally runway, not real way), complete dismay at Barbie-inspired makeup, Mr. Spock eyebrows, and how brown smokey eyes and “wet look” hair at Cushnie et Ochs looks great on one model and a total fashion disaster on the next.
So, here we go with the the rundown. And let us tell you, we’ve left out the looks that were so ridiculous that they deserve their own post titled, “Sorry, But Not Even On Halloween.”
Love it: Derek Lam. What gorgeous makeup! Of course, we’re heavily biased in our enthusiasm over the fact that such emphasis was placed on eye makeup this season, but Estee Lauder’s Tom Pecheux created a smokey burgundy that looked gorgeous on models with a wide range of skin tones, as you can see here. He also used two different colors of mascara — black on the top lashes and brown on the lower lashes, “to both soften and open up the gaze.” He finished the look with a soft rosy lipstick that picked up the same hues in the eye shadows; the finished look was absolutely luscious. You can approximate this smokey burgundy eye look by starting with ColorOn’s El instant eye shadow from the Bestsellers Variety Kit, a gradient soft pink and chocolate brown that combine to create a smokey deep mauve. Top it with a bit of our Smooth Black Star Red Shimmer loose mineral pigment, a black and red shimmer that becomes a dark golden wine tone.
Loathe It: Barbie. Do we even need to explain why this is just wrong on every level?
Also, loathed the un-blended matte lemon yellow eye shadow and uninspired black eyeliner at Narciso Rodriguez, and heap scorn on the makeup and hair at Jeremy Scott. That’s not even trying — that’s just for shock value, and it doesn’t take any talent.
Love It/Loathe It: Prabal Gurung. It’s technically stunning, amazing, makeup artistry that can truly be labeled “art.” And you couldn’t wear it anywhere. It exists in the vacuum of the haute couture runway.
Charlotte Tilbury was inspired by the array of colors seen in bird feathers when creating this peacock effect. She blended teal shadow all over the lids and through the brows, then detailed the lower lashes with copper brown for rich dimension. She finished by tracing an electric blue kohl pencil in the inner corners and smudging it under the brow bones. For a highly toned-down variation, you could use ColorOn’s Avatare instant eye shadow, shimmering prismatically across the eyelid from a deep glittering navy to a bright pop of citron and back to sky blue, then adding a copper liner or shadow under the lower lashes to get the same pop of dimensional contrast. Avatare is only available in our Custom Kits.
Love it: Anna Sui. Statement eye liner was another huge trend this time around, much of it of the heavy and black variety. For some reason, this cobalt-blue, flicked-up eyeliner by Pat McGrath is playful yet sophisticated, a bit outrageous but wearable and modern. Will you be able to get away with the same tiny blue dots that are aligned under models’ pupils for an eye-opening touch? Probably not at the office.
Love It: Rachel Zoe. Here’s the heavy and black variety of eye liner, and we think it was the best of the bunch. The very Warhol-esque liner is at the lash line and in the crease, a look you could reproduce with ColorOn’s Art Gothika instant eye shadow, with its glittering silver and shimmering black liners laying artistically across the eyelid to create a midnight multi-tonal look. With the arched, sculpted brows, contoured cheeks, nude lip and long center-parted hair, this vibe was very Verushka.
Loathe It: Zac Posen and Gemma Kahng. What’s with the Mr. Spock brows? The rest of the makeup couldn’t be more opposite, with the remainder of the eye at Zac Posen so overdone and overdrawn it looked like a bad eye job, and the look even more alien at Gemma Kahng. We don;t expect to see either look on the street unless we stumble accidentally into a cliche, the Trekkie Convention. Comic-Con IS coming up…
Love It/Loathe It: Cushnie et Ochs. We’ve always been a fan of creating the smokey eye in shades other than black, and brown can be a great daytime substitute, as well as making blue eyes pop.
Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury (her again!) smudged a brown velvet kohl over the entire eyelid and into the lashes, then applied a platinum metallic pigment to highlight the inner corners. It was an inventive trick that made traditional brown more brilliant. Then it was paired with wet-look hair, and on the model to the left, it works.
But on the model to the right, something goes horribly wrong with all of the very same elements. If nothing else, a cautionary tale. Sometimes a look you love just isn’t going to love you back. Try this look by pairing ColorOn’s Gypsy from the Metallics Variety Kit with Smooth Arctic Silver Shimmer loose mineral pigment in the inner corners of the eyes. And don’t even attempt the hair. They all just looked greasy, not wet.
Love It: We also loved the eye makeup at L’Wren Scott, Phillip Lim 3.1, Jill Stuart, Proenza Schouler, and Gucci Westman’s total look for Oscar de la Renta.
Love It: Announcing we have another name to add to the Winners Circle — Julie Swett of Corvallis, Montana. She’ll be watching her mailbox for the free 10-application Custom Kit we’ll be sending her. As always, we encourage our Winners Circle members to post their experiences on our Facebook Fan Page once they’ve had time to play with their new makeup, so that all of you get the benefit of real feedback on the products. Not an eVIP? Sign up now on the website.
We know we promised last week that this week we would talk abut the Grammys; NYFW derailed us with all the excesses and excessive coverage. We’ll do our Grammy post-mortem next week, and then it’s on to the Oscars!
Have a wonderful long weekend if you have Monday off for the President’s Day holiday.