London Fashion Week: All About Eye…Brows

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Vivienne Westwood/Getty Images

Vivienne Westwood/Getty Images

Our apologies for our Friday blog arriving on Saturday evening. It’s been one of THOSE WEEKS.

We took a break from Fall Fashion Week coverage to bring you our favs from the Academy Awards – and what a beauty and fashion extravaganza that was, as well as the first award show in history to spawn two body part-related Twitter accounts.

Now, we hop the pond for the best makeup looks from the 2012 Fall collections shown at London Fashion Week. What took us by complete surprise is that one of our favorite makeup looks came from the runway at Vivienne Westwood – not exactly known for restraint and wearability! Granted, this is just one of a number of iterations the makeup team sent down the catwalk, but still.

The overarching (pun intended) trend we’re seeing on all the runways, from New York to Paris, London to Milan, is the continued return of the strong brow. Granted, there is still the odd designer who is having the makeup artist bleach the brows (so very 2010) or thin them for a “vintage” look, but they are a shrinking minority.

And if you’re paying attention to your fashion magazines and blogs, there are entire articles devoted to brow grooming, beauty editorial is showing models like Arizona Muse, Daphne Groeneveld, Joan Smalls, and Jacquelyn Jablonski with major eyebrows, and the sale of brow-growth products (i.e. lash-growth products repackaged with a spooly wand) and lash-growth products for use on the brows continues to climb. And a quick look back at last week’s Oscar post will show you that every single celeb we featured had highly groomed and filled-in brows, even if the rest of her makeup was barely there.

So, London.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD:  The Queen of Avante Garde and Punk Progenitor has become the Grand Dame of the Red Carpet in recent years (Rose Byrne was wearing her design at the Oscars), but that doesn’t mean her runway shows are any less entertaining. Some of the hair and makeup in this show was so fabulously over-the-top that you can see the indulgent laughter on the faces of the fans in the front rows. Yet this look is really quite wearable and flattering, a bit monochromatic but with a warmth and naturalness that is perfect for day, and would transition easily to an evening look with the addition of a few coats of mascara and a deeper lip. For a matte look, use Ibiza from the Bestsellers or Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kits, a smoky nude comprised of gradient brown and beige. If you want a shimmery eye, use 14 Karat from the Metallics Variety Kit, a gradient wash of rich golds. Be sure to bring the shadow all the way up to the brow and out to the tail of the brow at the temple. Dip a liner brush into the extra mineral cream that remains on the mylar cover and use it to line under the lower lashes. To replicate this look, brown or clear mascara is called for, although you may feel too “undone” if you usually wear black mascara. The brows are filled and then brushed up and fixed with a bit of wax or gel. Complete the look with a matte bronzer swirled onto the apples of the cheeks, and a lightly colored lip balm like Fresh Honey Sugar or one of the new “butter balms” from L’Oreal or Revlon.

Burberry Prorsum/Wireimage

Burberry Prorsum/Wireimage

BURBERRY PRORSUM: Models at the Burberry Prorsum show sported smoky eyes colored in sumptuous, velvety shades. The idea was to create a smudged look that wasn’t too heavy or structured, and looked a bit worn in and casual. Start with ColorOn’s Gypsy instant eye shadow from the Metallics Variety Kit, a deep, sultry mix of rich gradient hues of shimmering mocha topped with metallic white. Dip a liner brush in the extra creamy mineral pigments remaining on the mylar cover sheet and line under the lower lashes with the deepest mocha shade. Burberry’s makeup artist, Wendy Rowe, used a single coat of black mascara, and brushed and groomed the model’s already naturally dark and heavy brows. A touch of earth-toned blush and a deep nude lip color complete the look. Long, center-parted hair further enhances the “look at my eyes-and-brows” focus.

House of Holland/Getty Images

House of Holland/Getty Images

HOUSE OF HOLLAND: Even though the precise, merlot-colored lip and platinum bob were major attention-getters, one couldn’t help but notice the model’s dark, heavy brows and smoked lids, with a touch of metallic silver in the inner corners to lighten up the look. It was a striking combination that sounds horribly overdone in writing, yet looks fresh and quite striking in the photo. Start with the same Gypsy instant eye shadow from the Metallics Variety Kit, but confine the deep mocha shimmer to the lid up into the crease, and the white from the crease up to the brow. Once again, dip a liner brush in the extra creamy mineral pigments remaining on the mylar cover sheet and line under the lower lashes with the deepest mocha shade. Then use a bit of our Smooth Arctic Silver Shimmer loose mineral pigment, a silvery white platinum, on the inner corners of the eye and down to just a bit below the lower lash line. Add mascara to the upper lashes only, and fill and groom the brows as needed. The rest of the face is bare but for a bit of concealer or foundation to perfect the complexion, which is also applied to the vermillion border of the lip to create an even base. You can also use one of the flesh-toned lip liners available. The lip is very precisely drawn and filled inside the vermillion border with a deeply pigmented satin-finish lipstick in a dark purple/berry. By leaving the cheeks essentially bare, the eyes and brows balance out the lips.

Behnaz Sarafpour/Getty Images

Behnaz Sarafpour/Getty Images

BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR: Here we have a strong brow, soft eye, strong lip combination. Iranian-born, Philadelphia-raised, Parson’s School of Design-educated Behnaz Sarafpour is a favorite of many thirty-something Hollywood celebs, who favor her dresses. For her Fall 2012 show in London, models wore matte shades of nude brown and beige on the eyes and a matte blue-based scarlet lip. To recreate a similar look, start with Ibiza from the Bestsellers or Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kits. Blend it down well on the inner third of the eye so that the application is very light, and smudge a bit of the deepest brown at the outer corner of the eye down just below the lower lash line. Curl your lashes, add black mascara to the top and bottom, and line the inner rims with black kohl. Groom and fill the brows, and use a bit of brow wax or clear mascara for some shine. A slight dusting of nude blush at the tops of the cheekbone out to the temples, and that statement lippie complete this sophisticated look. With a matte lipstick in such a strong color, be sure to use a nude lip liner and apply with a lip brush to get the most precise edge, blot, and apply another coat.

All of the colors mentioned in the blog can be chosen and combined into a Custom Kit, or you can buy the Variety Kit in which they’re featured. Either way, same price. Need a tutorial? Watch the video on the website for application tips and tricks.

And now, the Winner’s Circle. The lucky eVIP to win this week’s random drawing for a free 10-application Custom Kit is Jessica Kocher of Bonney Lake, Washington. She’ll be watching her mailbox to see what beautiful surprise we send her. As always, we encourage our Winners Circle members to post their experiences on our Facebook Fan Page once they’ve had time to play with their new makeup, so that all of you get the benefit of real feedback on the products. Not an eVIP? Sign up now on the website.

In our next post, we’ll cover Milan, and then do Paris. But before then, keep an eye on your email and our Facebook page. We may have some very exciting news to announce next week!

Remember to spring forward tonight, except for those of you in Indiana who don’t do Daylight Savings Time. Have a lovely week!

One response »

  1. Pingback: Paris Fashion Week: Bedazzled Brows and Dazzling Eyes « ColorOn's Color Commentary

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