Now, it’s possible you could have been too busy, or out of town, or away from a computer, smartphone, iPad, or tablet — or you may have been under a rock – and missed Monday’s launch of BrowPro. If so, you’ll have to wait, because we’re going to continue our 2012 Fall Fashion Week “Greatest Hits” series with Milan Fashion Week – or part 3 of 4 if you’re counting.
Once again, we see major similarities – when it comes to makeup and hair – on the runway, even if the clothes in Milan were strikingly different from those shown in New York and London. There were lots of up-dos, both the artfully undone and the slickly severe; ponytails; braids; the half up-do; center-parted and straight; and sensuously long and textured. The makeup ran the gamut as well, but certain trends will out: bold brows, bold lips paired with minimal eye makeup, smoky eyes paired with delicate lip colors or no lip color at all, graphic eyeliner, bright pops of color, and the occasional makeup artist still clinging to the bleached brow, which is starting to look very dated, especially when paired with heavy eye makeup, like that at Prada. The models Miuccia Prada sent down her runway looked like aliens!
Let’s start with the looks we loved, then we can point and laugh at some of the looks we have to assume were designed just to get attention, like the bratty kid who doesn’t distinguish between praise and scolding, as long as someone is looking at her.
Blumarine: If you were going to create a look that had to say “sexy and Italian,” wouldn’t this be it? A modern version of the Italian actresses of the Sixties (think Sophia Loren, Monica Vitti, Claudia Cardinale, Virna Lisi), this look is all heavy black eyeliner over a velvet-brown smoky eye, dark arched brows, sculpted bronze cheekbones, and lush nude lips. Create the same look with ColorOn’s Gypsy from the Eye Envy Precious Metals Variety Kit, then layer on your favorite black eyeliner in liquid, pencil, or powder. We love our own Smooth Black Shimmer loose mineral pigment for its dimensional look and non-irritating ingredients. Lots of black mascara, a matte bronzer swirled onto cheekbones (if they’re prominent) or just below them (to create prominence), and a satiny pinkish nude lipstick, and you’re ready for “la dolce vita.”
Dolce & Gabbana: Luckily, this isn’t about the accessories! So, ignore the rococo hairpiece and earrings, and focus on the beautiful metallic pastels. What’s amazing is how well the same colors work on models with two very different skin tones! To get the same effect, start with ColorOn’s El from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, a gradient soft pink and chocolate brown that combine to create a smoky mauve. Then, layer on Smooth Arctic Silver Shimmer, a silvery white platinum shimmer pigment, across the lid, into the crease, and the inner corners of the eye. Curl your lashes, and add black mascara. The brows are very strong with this look, so make sure yours are well-groomed and filled (we think you know what our recommendation will be!). A delicate mauve blush is swirled onto the apples of the cheeks and out toward the temples, and a sheer mauve gloss that lets the lips’ texture show through completes the look.
Etro: Here we have the amazingly lovely Joan Smalls again, this time for Etro. The velvet-brown smoky eye, matte bronze cheek and nude lip are virtually the same as those at Blumarine, and you would use all of the same color recommendations. Again, note the attention paid to grooming and filling in the brows, even on someone who already has black eyebrows. Are you sensing a trend, as well as where we’re going with this?
Gianfranco Ferre: This is the smoky eye squared! And it’s not just smoky; it’s metallic, it’s a deep sapphire blue, it’s more than a bit unkempt, and it extends almost to the temples. To achieve the same look, use ColorOn’s Smooth Black Star Blue Shimmer loose mineral pigment, a steely midnight blue shimmer. Apply it from the inner corners of the eye upward to the lower inside corner of the brow at an almost 90-degree angle, then sweep it straight out and a bit down to meet the tip of the outer tail of your brow, leaving a gap of bare skin below your brow’s arch. Extend the shadow as far out on the temple as you feel comfortable with – as shown, this look is not for a day at the office, unless your office is a nightclub. Fill in the lid and sweep the color below the lower lash line as heavily as is appropriate. You’ll notice that the makeup artists did not clean up all of the little speckles of shimmer that fell below the eye, nor did they clean up any dots of mascara that occurred when applying it – within reason. There is a definite perimeter to the eye makeup, no matter how “next day” it may look. The brows are groomed and lightly filled, just the barest hint of nude blush near the temples, and a “you lips but better” balm are added to create a finished look that doesn’t fight with this major eye.
Gucci (with a caveat): This look is missing two things we really love – eye makeup, which we can live with because we adore the deep burgundy lip, and eyebrows, which we can’t live with, because something is needed to balance out that lip. We totally agree with the theory that says heavy eye makeup AND major lips just look too…done. It lacks balance. But this model’s coloring is so pale that her lack of brows and minimalist eye makeup are overwhelmed by the lovely shiny patent-leather lips. Just a little bit of brow love would turned this one around into simply gorgeous.
Moschino Cheap & Chic: Notice anything? Talk about a statement lip. It’s not a color just anyone can pull off, but it looks amazing with her skin tone. Do we love it with a canary yellow blouse? Meh. But back to the makeup – just a hint of grey shadow, black kohl on the inner rims of the eyes, and no mascara work well, but we think she needed a bit of fill on the brows, again to balance out such a major lip color and to frame the eyes. Once you get used to the strong brows, their absence really stands out!
Normaluisa: Another statement mouth, but this time we have some brows! The eye makeup is just a touch of brown mascara and a dusting of translucent powder on the lids, but her brows are groomed and lightly filled, albeit thinner than many of the other looks we’ve seen. Still, the effort pays off to add the right amount of “weight” to balance out the shiny coral-red lips. Even though her coloring is also very pale, compare her to the model at Gucci, and she looks delicately beautiful instead of just slightly consumptive.
Roberto Cavalli: There are about five different colors to this eye look, but Roberto Cavalli didn’t build his reputation on subtlety. By starting with ColorOn, you already have multiple colors on a single applicator, so recreating this look isn’t as complex as you might think. Apply Noche from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, a gradient black, grey, and white. Use the extra creamy mineral shadow that is left on the cover film to line heavily below the lower lashes. Next, use our Smooth Purple Royale Shimmer loose mineral pigment to dust a pop of bright purple in a crescent from the inner corner of the eye upward below the brow to just above the pupil. Then, use our Smooth Monarch Gold Shimmer, a bright yellow-gold shimmer that looks like 14-karat dust, to trace the inner corners of the eyes top and bottom. Add plenty of mascara, and groom and fill the brows. The makeup artists at Cavalli eschewed cheek color altogether, opting to draw a fine line of the same gold along the cupid’s-bow of the upper lip and filling the lips with a cool nude satin lipstick.
Salvatore Ferragamo: Angelina Jolie’s go-to label is all about subtle elegance. The smoky doeskin eye makeup, groomed brows, sculpted cheeks, and nude lips are trademark Angelina looks, in fact. You can easily recreate this runway look by using ColorOn’s Ibiza from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, a subtle yet sophisticated smoky nude comprised of gradient beige and brown. Mascara was used on the upper lashes only, with special concentration on the outer third. Brows are groomed and filled in, and the cheeks contoured in the hollow below the cheekbone in a matte nude with peach undertones. The lips have a just-bitten color to them achieved through using a pink/nude lip liner to color in the entire lip, then topping it with lip balm instead of a gloss.
Now, for the looks that drew laughs…
Bottega Veneta (with a caveat): We don’t hate this look; in fact, we debated on where to put it. It landed here because there was more in the minus column than the plus. We like the graphic eye shadow; we just think it isn’t really a wearable look for most people. We think she desperately needed mascara to balance out such a strong amount of eye shadow. We think her lightened brows are out of step, but they have a great shape and thickness. We like the almost-black matte berry lips, but we know that virtually no one can wear this look successfully, nor would they. It’s a runway look that requires a lot of softening and modification before it translates into the real world.
Byblos: This one got full-on snorting giggles and eye-rolling – and that was from the guys. Ok, not really – but it was the first time they recognized an influence, and started calling this look “the Tebow.” Even if we were to completely ignore the fact that the eye makeup is in the wrong place (it DOES eliminate the need for concealer), she has no other makeup on, and her forehead is shiny, her brows are sparse, her lashes non-existent. She’s a gorgeous girl, and they’ve gone out of their way to make her look unattractive. That doesn’t help sell the drama – or the clothes.
Fendi: Italian milkmaid? We have no idea what they were thinking at Fendi when they came up with this stinker of a look. Last season, it was gold and silver leaf on the eyes. Now, it’s a square of white pigment that covers part of the eyebrow, black eyelids, spider lashes, and Heidi braids. We can’t believe we’re actually going to admit this, but we preferred the Spring 2012 crazy foil eyes.
Prada: We tried to appreciate this look for the artistry involved, but we kept coming back to the fact that it’s, well…ugly. You may disagree, and we’d love to hear from everyone who thinks it is fabulous and will be wearing it. As a company founded by the makeup artist who invented and patented the ColorOn technology, we always appreciate the time and talent that go into avante garde looks like this. But if you had the opportunity to look at any of the pictures or video from this show, and saw model after model with this makeup on, you have to agree that they looked eerie and not terribly attractive. It’s almost insectile.
Versace: This look has some good points, but like Bottega Veneta, they were overcome by the not-so-good. The highly graphic eye liner is very on-trend, as is the sharp-edged block of color on the lids and brow bone. The black is too saturated for daywear, but that could be overlooked. It’s the brows! Why would they take such lovely, perfectly arched and shaped brows, and bleach them? Against such strong eye makeup, they’re lost. Top them with bangs that look like they were cut by a five-year-old with her blunt scissors, and we’re done. This look had promise, and they blew it.
All of the colors mentioned in the blog can be chosen and combined into a Custom Kit , or you can buy the Variety Kit in which they’re featured. Either way, same price. Need a tutorial? Watch the video on the website for application tips and tricks.
Next up, BrowPro.
Now you can create runway ready brows in moments with ColorOn’s latest launch, Instant Eyebrow Applicators. Instead of multiple products or expensive all-in-one brow kits containing gel, pencils, powders, wax, and brow-shaping stencils, all you need is ColorOn’s all-in-one-application BrowPro. BrowPro colors, defines, shapes, and holds the eyebrows in place. Available in three creamy brow-enhancing shades that blend to match most eyebrows:
- Light (for blonde to light brown hair)
- Brown (for medium to dark brown hair)
- Dark (for dark brown to black hair)
In three popular shapes:
BrowPro comes with 2 applicators (4 applications), a disposable spooly brush, and Get Set! Setting Powder, and is available as part of the Custom Kits at coloronpro.com. Just add the BrowPro in your color and shape to your Custom Kit (Medium Brows in Light, Full Brows in Dark, Thin Brows in Brown, etc.), the same way you would choose an Instant Eye Shadow. Now you can create a Custom Kit with brows and eye makeup all in one, for the same price as always. It’s a great way to try BrowPro!
And now, the Winner’s Circle. The lucky eVIP to win this week’s random drawing for a free 10-application Custom Kit is Shonna Luten of Marietta, Georgia. She’ll be watching her mailbox to see what beautiful surprise we send her. As always, we encourage our Winners Circle members to post their experiences on our Facebook Fan Page once they’ve had time to play with their new makeup, so that all of you get the benefit of real feedback on the products. Not an eVIP? Sign up now on the website.
In our next post, we’ll finish up with Paris. Have a lovely week!