It’s the last of our 2012 Fashion Week round ups, ending with the City of Lights, Paris. Once again, there are more similarities than differences when we compare it to New York, London, and Milan – barely there makeup on dewy, glowing skin; strong brows; lots of either slicked-back or flowing textured hair; heavily smoked eyes and nude or naked lips; delicate or nude eyes and statement lip colors; and the avante garde looks. Yes, there were some bleached brows in Paris, but probably the least number in all of the shows for Fall (yay, France!).
No reason to break a pattern here; we’ll start with the macquillage we love, then we’ll explore the slap that had us asking “quelle serieuse?” But we’ll divide it up by looks, too, just to break it up a bit for this last installment. To see larger views of the images, click on them. Most are 550×550 pixels, so you can really see the detail when you want to try these looks out for yourself.
Smoky Eyes/Nude Lips…
Costume National: Here’s a smoky eye that confines itself primarily to the upper eyelid and brow bone only, which is unusual this season. The onyx shadow starts at the inner corner of the brow, sweeping outward past the tail of the brow to come to a tapering point at the temple just shy of the hairline. More of the same deep shadow is applied from the center of the eyelid outward to mimic the “cat’s eye” shape and further draw the eye up and outward. A thin application of black liner is pushed into the lower lash line along the outer two-thirds of the eye, and black kohl is applied to the waterline.
To get the same effect, start with ColorOn’s Noche from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, tilting the applicator at an angle so that you get a good deposit of the deep gray and black creamy mineral shadows into the inner corner of the eye angling up and out toward the tail of the brow and temple. Once you peel away the applicator, reapply again with the darkest part pressed partially to the outer corner of the eye if there is any area that did not receive shadow from the initial application. Blend so that the edges overlap. Dip an eyeliner brush into the mineral shadow remaining on the cover film and line below the lower lash line.
Add kohl to the inner rims if you are comfortable wearing it and it doesn’t irritate your eyes. Apply a coat of black mascara but skip curling your lashes. Brush your brows up and out in the same direction as your eye makeup and fix them in place with brow gel or ColorOn BrowPro in your thickness and shade to further enhance the upward sweep of the look. The rest of the face is dusted with translucent powder and lips are bare with just a slick of non-shiny balm.
Givenchy: What a gorgeous, warm, sexy smoky eye! Instead of being drab, the monochromatic tones are rich and sensual, with the eyes sporting a glossed warm base tone, and the lips a cool matte base, yet all in the same color family.
Start with ColorOn’s Bronze Goddess from the Eye Envy Precious Metals Variety Kit, making sure you get a good application from the lash line all the way up to the brow, and from the very inner corner of the brow all the way out to the end of the tail, blending with you ring finger to be sure you cover the entire area. Take a tapered eyeshadow brush (an eyeliner brush will be too thin) and stroke it through the extra creamy shadow remaining on the cover film, and rim heavily below the lower lash line, extending it out and up to meet the shadow near the brow tail. Apply a small dab of an emollient eye cream like La Mer or Bobbi Brown Balm Extra to the lids (or one of the eye glosses like Tom Ford, Paul & Joe, MAC, or even Vaseline) to create the same glossed look, remembering that this is going to move and crease, unlike your usual application of ColorOn with its setting powder. Use a brown kohl or bronze pencil to rim the water line, and add a coat of black mascara. Brush the brows up and out toward the temples, and either fix with clear gel if your brows are dark brown or black, or use BrowPro to to color, define, shape, and hold the eyebrows in place.
The barest hint of a nude-to-pale bronze matte blush is swept lightly across the very outer top of the cheekbones and up into the temple area to meet the eye shadows, and the rest of the face is lightly dusted with translucent powder. The lips are accentuated with a satin matte lipstick in a cool cappuccino shade.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac
Jean Charles de Castelbajac: The smoky eye in Paris kept getting more and more deconstructed. At de Castelbajac, the metallic smoky eye was a deep black and glittering emerald green that looked so carelessly applied you could see finger smudges outward onto the models’ temples. Now, that’s perfectly fine on the runway, but out in the real world, you’re just as likely to elicit whispers about whether you either, 1) made it home last night and are wearing the outfit your went out in, or 2) are perhaps still obviously inebriated from said night out at the clubs, Either way, not a recommended career move. We heartily recommend toning this look down for all occasions but the well-planned (and perhaps well out of town) Ladies Night Out. Start with ColorOn’s Noche from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, eschewing the lightest shade for a heavy application of the blackest creamy mineral pigments, starting at the inner corner of the eyebrow and making sure you reach the entire lid and outward and up to the outer tip of the eyebrow, blending up into the eyebrow and making the fingerprints if you desire out on the temples.
Dip a relatively fine eyeliner brush into the leftover creamy black mineral pigments that still remain on the cover film, and sweep them in a line pushed into the outer 7/8ths of the lower lashes. Clean the brush, and dip it in the white cream minerals on the same cover film, tracing the very inner corner of the eyed around the tear duct. Sweep a deep shimmering jewel-toned shadow over the upper lids and into the crease, either a deep forest green as shown in the photo, or one of ColorOn’s Smooth Shimmer Mineral Pigments like Black Star Blue Shimmer (deep sapphire blue/black), Black Star Red (black and red shimmer than becomes a dark golden lilac), Black Star Gold (dark black/brown and gold), Purple Royale Shimmer (a midnight-bright purple) or Sienna Shimmer (an earthy pop of red brown). Add black mascara and brush and set the brows with gel or use ColorOn’s BrowPro to color, fill, and set them.
Add a coat of black mascara, and dust the face with translucent powder. This look doesn’t even require lip color, but at least a clear lip balm will make the lips look healthy and moisturized.
John Galliano: The smoky look at John Galliano’s show was heavily worked into the entire orbital socket, surrounding the eye on all sides. Like the smoky eyes at Costume National and de Castelbajac, start with ColorOn’s Noche from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit. Blend the deepest black into the inner corners and out and down at the outer corners. Dip an eyeshadow brush into the darkest creamy shadow left on the cover film and sweep it under the lower lashes, joining it with the shadow at the inner and outer corners until you have a good density all the way around the entire eye. Add black kohl to the inner rims, and apply black mascara. Unlike the previous blackened eye looks, at Galliano the makeup artists did use a lighter pale grey/white under the brows, which were shaped and filled to match the models’ haircolor. Choose your thickness and matching color of BrowPro and apply.
A pale pink crystal gloss was applied to the lips and blotted, leaving a hint of shine and shimmer. You could also use one of the new shimmer lip balms from drugstore brands Nivea, Sally Hansen, Blistex, or Burt’s Bees.
Kayne West: American hip-hop mogul Kanye West decided to debut his women’s line in Paris, and we won’t bother to comment on the reviews of the clothes. The makeup, however, was certainly…interesting. Similar in some ways to the deconstructed look at de Castelbajac, at first glance it looked as if the models had been caught in the rain or crying, and their dark eye makeup had run. On closer inspection, you realize that the “runoff” under the eyes is actually the fingerprints of the makeup artists, and that the heavy deposits of black color on the upper lids and on the browbone are feathered to look like lashes (the same effect was used at Anthony Vacarello as well). Black kohl lining the inner rims of the eyes, multiple coats of mascara for spidery lashes, groomed and filled brows, contoured cheekbones, and baby pink lips balm finish the look. If you wanted to create a modified version of this one, grab your Noche from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit, a fine eyeliner brush for dragging through the shadow on the browbone to create the feathering, an eyeshadow brush for depositing a heavy application of Noche below the lower lashes, your black kohl, the proper thickness and color BrowPro, your favorite mascara, and a sweet pink lippy, and don’t be afraid to get your fingers dirty.
Soft Eye/Strong Lips…
Haider Ackerman: This look is very exaggerated; in past seasons (like Spring 2012!), Haider Ackerman has done much softer, more wearable makeup. This model can perhaps be excused for her lack of brows as a natural redhead (she has invisible eyelashes as well), but other models from the show had dark hair and almost non-existent brows, so someone hasn’t received the “stop-plucking, start-filling” memo. Combine that with the no-mascara look, and we have a very surprised or angry looking (depending on her haircolor) line of models strutting down the runway. All of them received an application of winged ochre-colored eye shadow, in varying degrees of intensity, no cheek color, a liberal dusting of translucent powder for a matte finish, and either a fuchsia or brick-red matte lip.
Julien David: The matte lip is certainly mounting a comeback now that the technology allows for cosmetic companies to get the same appearance without drying out the lip and causing some of the unsightly problems that earlier generations of matte lipsticks caused. At Julien David, this orange-based matte red lip is gorgeous, and is balanced by the model’s own groomed black brows, a pale taupe cream shadow on the lids and brow bones, a shimmery taupe cream shadow in the inner corners of the eyes and under the lower lashes, and a coat of black mascara. If you intend to try this look, be sure your brows are groomed and filled if they are not as strong or dark as the model’s in order to balance such a vivid lip color. Of course, we recommend BrowPro for that.
Kenzo: It’s been said by more than one fashion writer that this shade of bright pink (made famous by Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli) is the new red, and it looked stunning on the runway at Kenzo. It’s entirely possible that this is even NARS “Schiap” matte lipstick, his homage to the designer. Paired with another Fall 2012 trend, geometric eyeliner, this is a look that’s fairly easy to recreate. Be sure to follow the third trend in the shot, groomed and filled brows – we can help you with that one: BrowPro.
Nina Ricci: What a beautiful makeup application at Nina Ricci! Yes, that is not what you’re supposed to hear about your makeup, but that’s what we’re “talking about” ( the blogger euphemism for one-way conversation unless y’all comment) here. It’s when a complete stranger says that to you that you need to get to a ladies room, stat, and start wiping things off. The balance between brows, eyes, and lips is exquisite. Her arches are the perfect shape and thickness for her face, and are filled and groomed without looking over- or underdone. ColorOn’s BrowPro is your all-in-one application that will color, define, shape, and hold the eyebrows in place. The eye makeup is subtle but enhancing, using cool tones of taupe and brown to play off the cool undertones of her alabaster skin and the pop of cool burgundy at the center of her matte scarlet lips. Try ColorOn’s Gypsy from the Metallics Variety Kit, applying lightly so that you don’t deposit too much of the creamy mineral shadows – you want this to be a subtle, not a smoky application. Dip a tapered shadow brush into the deeper shade of Gypsy left on the cover film and sweep it below the lower lash line. Curl your eyelashes, and apply black mascara on upper and lower lashes. This look eschews cheek color for a light dusting of translucent setting powder. With a lip color this pronounced, apply with a lip brush after lining the lips with a matching lip liner. Blot, and reapply. Then take a burgundy or merlot lipstick and dab into the center of the lower lip with your ring finger, extending a bit to either side. Lightly press lips together.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf: Grey eyes and merlot lips were the striking combination at Viktor & Rolf, and even though most of the country is dealing with record-breaking temperatures this first week of Spring, one look at this makeup and you’re already thinking about the leaves turning. Just like the models at Nina Ricci, we have that perfect balance of the three elements: brows, eyes and lips.
The models’ brows at V&R were brushed up and out, filled and fixed. BrowPro in your thickness and color will do the trick. Unlike most of the other runways that featured such a deep lip, the makeup artists did not opt for taupes and beiges, instead using a lightly shimmering grey as the neutral eye shadow, with a touch of white shimmer in the inner corners. You can get the same look with ColorOn’s Platinum & Pearls from the Metallics Variety Kit. Dip a tapered shadow brush into the deeper grey shade of left on the cover film and sweep it below the lower lash line, and then use the shimmery white on the inner corners of the eye. Apply black mascara, and a bit of nude powder blush below the cheekbones as contour. Victor & Rolf showed this dark wine lip in both glossed and matte versions, with the matte uniformly a dark, cool burgundy with razor-sharp edges. The glossy version, shown here, is a bit more diffuse with a burgundy-bordering-on-black base edging inward to a truer burgundy at the center of the lip.
Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent: At YSL, the balance was between shiny and matte surfaces. The slicked-back hair and saturated crimson lips were patent-leather shiny; the skin was beautifully flawless and matte. The eyebrows were strong, groomed and filled, the eye shadows a subtle winged taupe and a touch of gold shimmer in the inner corners. A flick of mascara and the barest hint of blush, and it was done.
The Soft/No Makeup Look…
Christian Dior, model #1
Over at Refinery29.com, one of our favorite websites, they recently posted an article titled, “Is The No Makeup Look On The Runway A Total Cop-Out?”. And to look at some of these close-up shots, you might start to agree. But look closely. While seeming to require little-to-no makeup, all of them take some work, and some take as much work as any of the dramatic looks above.
Christian Dior, model #2
Christian Dior: We’re showing you these two models from the Dior runway to illustrate how the same eye makeup and lip colors can work on two very different skintones. The look starts with a matte beige and brown eyeshadow combination, which you can duplicate using ColorOn’s Ibiza from the Eye Envy Smoky Variety Kit.
The twist in this eye look is a pale silvery white eyeliner along the upper lash line, starting in the just below the inner corner of the eye and sweeping up and outward, ending just shy of the outer corner of the eye. You can use a pencil or liquid, or try ColorOn’s Smooth Pearl Shimmer loose mineral pigment, a pure iridescent pearly white, drawn on with a damp eyeliner brush. Dip a heavier tapered or eye shadow brush in the deepest matte brown creamy mineral shadow from the film covering your Ibiza application and sweep it under the outer two-thirds of the lower lashes.
Add mascara, and groom and fill brows with the right thickness and color of BrowPro. A salmon-pink powder blush is dusted high on the cheekbones and swept up toward the temples, and the lips are slicked with a sheer crème lipstick in the same family.
Vanessa Bruno: There’s a surprising amount of makeup on this seemingly “bare” face at Vanessa Bruno. There’s an illuminating “concealer” under the eyes (one of those that purports to diffuse circles and shadows with radiance and luminous pigments; in our experience, they don’t – and if it doesn’t work on someone this young, imagine how well it doesn’t work on those of us with well-established dark circles in our 30s, 40s, and beyond. Yes, we’re looking at you, Touche Éclat.); pale brown sugar cream shadow on the browbone and in the crease, and lilac/gray cream shadow on the lids; curled lashes with a coat of mascara on the top lashes; a delicate pink cream blush rubbed into the apples of the cheeks; a luminizer on the tops of the cheekbones, above the peaks of the brow arches, and at the cupid’s bow of the lips; her brows are groomed and filled; and a baby pink lip balm or sheer satin lipstick. So that she looks like she’s not wearing any makeup.
Gareth Pugh: The model’s skin s very dewy, and we know it’s not simply the sheen of sweat from the multiple clothing changes and hot lights on the runway (there’s a twee euphemism for sweating, but our pragmatic natures block us from ever remembering what it is).
What we have here is the perfect makeup/no makeup storm: a model who is not yet of legal drinking age in most states in the U.S. (she may not even be old enough to vote), the addition of an illuminating moisturizer like MAC Strobe Cream, a flush-colored cream blush, and a just-bitten, pinky/peach gloss with not a speck of shimmer. No mascara, no eye makeup, but her brows are brushed and there is the slightest touch of a blonde brow pencil or powder to give them just a bit of color they were lacking.
Leonard: We concede there’s a golden/ochre eye shadow, brown mascara (and curled lashes), and clear lip gloss. To duplicate the same eye shadow color, use ColorOn’s 14 Karat from the Metallics Variety Kit.
Paul & Joe
Paul & Joe: Coco Rocha is wearing a touch of mascara (and we do mean a touch; it could be left over from the day before), a flick of blush, and slick of clear warm plum/pink lip gloss. And she may have shown up in it.
Isabel Marant: Joan Smalls was this year’s MVP; she was EVERYWHERE, and looked amazing.
Even the hair and makeup “artists” at Isabel Marant couldn’t make her look bad, and it looks like they really tried.
They seem to have deliberately used products to mattify her hair so that it didn’t shine and looked dull. Apparently concealer and mascara were no-nos, but black liquid eyeliner and bronzer were on the approved list. Oh, and lip color was out. Yet even with all of that, Joan still looks gorgeous.
Chanel: They’re the brows you couldn’t possibly have missed in all of the press coverage; instead of making the models pretty at Chanel, they glued stones to their faces. OK, that’s perhaps an oversimplification – they glued semiprecious gemstones to strips of material and affixed them over the models’ own eyebrows. No mascara, no blush, a bit of pale pink gloss, some powder. C’est tout. Then they slicked their hair back into tight ponytails. We believe wholeheartedly that Coco Chanel would be utterly appalled.
It’s All about Color…
This part is mostly just for fun.
Akris: Although she has on a full makeup application, something about this look still feels unfinished, and we’re not quite sure why. It’s one you either love or just feel kind of “meh” about, but more of us loved it than were indifferent — but we all thought the model adorable. You can get the same pretty teal blue look with Key West from the Eye Envy Tropics Variety Kit.
Manish Aroroa: In spite of its wearability issues (because nothing says “breaking through the glass ceiling” like paper butterfly false eyelashes), this look is really quite pretty. It was also shown with a matte blue-based crimson lip.
Miu Miu: Well, we like this better than Miuccia Prada’s makeup in Milan for the Prada shows. And no, the irony is not lost on us.
Yang Du: Over the last five weeks of coverage (we had to squeeze the Oscars in there) of 2012 Fall Fashion Weeks, we’ve show some pretty crazy stuff. Every locale – New York, London, Milan, and now Paris – has had a show or three where the makeup was flat-out crazy. Welcome to the club, Yang Du.
All of the colors mentioned in the blog, as well as BrowPro, can be chosen and combined into a Custom Kit, or you can buy the Variety Kit in which they’re featured. Either way, same price. Need a tutorial? Watch the video on the website for application tips and tricks.
And now, the Winner’s Circle. The lucky eVIP to win this week’s random drawing for a free 10-application Custom Kit is Sandra Bempong of Upper Marlboro, Maryland. She’ll be watching her mailbox to see what beautiful surprise we send her. As always, we encourage our Winners Circle members to post their experiences on our Facebook Fan Page once they’ve had time to play with their new makeup, so that all of you get the benefit of real feedback on the products. Not an eVIP? Sign up now on the website.
That’s it for our Fashion Week wrap ups. We’ll have to go back to scoping out celebrities! And then we’ll have the Academy of Country Music Awards on April 1st to check out.
Have a simply gorgeous week…